The City Tour

Today we got four more holes punched in our “boleto turistico” for taking the inappropriately named “city tour” to Tambomachay, Pukapukara, Q’engo and Saqsaywaman (gringos cope with the pronunciation by calling it “sexy woman”!). These are all sites that are within a stone’s throw of Cusco. The weather was glorious and in addition to our driver, Reinaldo and Clevar, our guide, we were joined by Eddy, Clevar’s brother and Anastassja’s contact, in charge of the company they all work for. He was dressed somewhat incongruously in a suit and tie (which, unlike in Geneva, you don’t see here very often) as he had just attended a graduation ceremony at Cusco University!  

Here are a few comments on each of the sites, each of which served a different function in the Inca world. 

Tambomachay (top left) – this is an intimate site where Inca chiefs went to get away from it all and take the waters. The same fountains they used then still function today.   Pukapukara – (top right) this means “red fort” in Quechua and this site served the function of receiving and re-despatching produce from other Inca sites in the area. The views from here were particularly panoramic.  Q’engo – (left)  this had an even more ancient and slightly “spooky” feel to it. The rocks themselves are naturally occurring limestone and in some underground niches black llamas were ritually sacrificed to mark the summer and winter solstices.  Saqsaywaman – (bottom 3 left) no visit to Cusco is complete without discovering this site, just above the city. The Inca Pachacutec conceived the city of Cusco in the form of a puma (the Inca symbol of terrestrial life) and this site formed its head. Only 20% of the original Inca structure remains – the conquistadores pillaged the site for stones with which to build the cathedral and other buildings in the city, but were unable to transport the biggest stones, weighing up to 300 tons, and it those that remain today. A terrible battle was fought here in 1536 when Manco Inca challenged the Spanish cavalry led by Juan Pizarro, Francisco’s brother. The Incas lost by a hair’s breadth and retreated to Ollantaytambo, from where they continued to defy the invader.